Day One (and Day Two with crossing the Atlantic)
Flew from Cedar Rapids through O’Hare to Heathrow Airport, rented a
car, and drove to Sudbury, Suffolk to visit Sally and Mike. It had
been many, many years since they lived next door Northern Ireland.
It was wonderful to see them again and to be able to catch up with the
status and activities of our respective families.
Day Three
Sally & Mike showed us many of the local sights for a couple of
days. Today we went to Lavenham and toured the Lavenham Church, visited
a small textile museum, enjoyed the picturesque old houses, and wandered
around the old Swan Hotel. The hotel was obviously a favorite haunt
for men from the nearby airfield and had many mementos from WWII including
signatures of many of the fliers on the walls of the bar.
Day Four
Visited the ruins of the Abbey of St Edmund, an 11th century abbey in
Bury St Edmunds. It was here that the 25 Magna Carta barons met in
1214 to discuss their letter to the king.
Spent the rest of the day in Cambridge. We visited Kings College
(founded by Henry VI in 1441), St Johns College (founded 1511 by Lady Margaret
Beaufort, mother of Henry VIII), and Trinity College (founded by Henry
VIII) and had a delightful walking tour in the area of the colleges and
then along part of the River Cam where we saw some of the “backsides” of
the colleges as well as the punts (boats) on the river.
Day Five
Packed up and, after a very nice lunch at Browns in Cambridge, took
our leave of Sally & Mike and ventured once more onto the motorways
where everyone seemed to be going the wrong direction <g>. Thankfully,
it was Sunday and the traffic was not too bad as we endeavored to find
our hotel.
Day Six
Made our way to the National Gallery and greatly enjoyed the collections.
The gallery is on Trafalgar Square so we naturally gawked at Nelson’s
statue like any good tourists. This memorial commemorates Admiral
Lord Nelson’s big victory over the French Fleet.
Took a stroll towards Parliament and Westminster Abbey. On the
way we passed the Admiralty Arch, Whitehall, and St James Park. The
wheel in the background of Whitehall is the Millennium Ferris Wheel which
is 450 ft tall and doesn’t stop as it picks up passengers. Visited
the Cabinet War Rooms, twenty-one rooms buried deep beneath a protective
layer of concrete that were used during WWII by Churchill and his staff.
After gaping at The Tower of Big Ben for a bit, we took the tube (subway)
back to our hotel.
In the evening, we traveled to the Red Lion & Pineapple to eat and
to chat with a few Mensans. In addition to the "brilliant" conversation,
we got some good tips for our sight-seeing efforts.
Red Lion - Jules, Steve, Peter |
Red Lion - Bob, Francis, Beverly |
Day Seven
Started off the day with the Tower of London and a good thing, too as
there is much to see there. The oldest continuously occupied fortress
in Europe, it was begun in 1066 by William the Conqueror with additional
construction by Richard the Lionheart, Henry III, and Edward I. The
White Tower is the most prominent structure in the Tower facility and there
are still armaments displayed as they were when a portion was utilized
as an armory. The building used as a museum for the Royal Fusiliers
was, unfortunately, closed for renovation. The crown jewel displays
are a key tourist destination in the tower. Aside from a stroll over
to the Tower Bridge, the Tower pretty much took up the day but it was time
well spent. The picture below was my first effort at stitching together
files and didn't have focus set right. Oh well.
Outside wall of Tower of London |
Day Eight
Took the tube to Westminster Station and walked to the Tate Gallery.
After enjoying the displays there, we chose to try a bus ride back to Westminster
Abbey. Westminster Abbey, of course, is one of the premier tourist
destinations and that is surely deserved. Founded in 1050 by Edward
the Confessor and expanded by other monarchs, particularly Henry III.
The site of all coronations but two and the final resting place of over
5000 people of significance in English history. Visiting it is a
distinct history lesson. Next door is St Margarets church.
Had another opportunity this evening to meet more Mensa folk.
We started with good conversation at the Grape St Wine Bar, walked to a
nearby restaurant for dinner, and finished at a pub.
Day Nine
An included part of our tour was a half day bus tour of London led by
a local guide Mick (John Steed). We were provided a thorough tour
of downtown London with stops at St Paul's Cathedral, St James Palace,
and at Buckingham palace for the changing of the guard. There has
been a cathedral dedicated to St Paul at this site since 604 AD.
After it burned in the great fire of 1666, Christopher Wren began building
his masterpiece. The rebuilding took 35 years being finished in 1710.
It was a symbol of resistance during WWII as Hitler failed to destroy it
during the bombing raids. Volunteers stayed on the roof during raids
to ensure that no fires which began could spread. Buried here are
such notables as Wren himself, Van Dyck, Nelson, Wellington, Constable,
etc.
We stationed ourselves on the street near Buckingham Palace and got
to see, in succession, the Irish Guard, the Coldstream Guard, the Scots
Band, and the Scots Grenadiers marching to take part in the changing of
the guard ceremony.
After the bus tour was finished, we elected to visit Shakespeare's New
Globe Theatre. This is a recent reconstruction near the site of Shakespeare’s
old theatre which burned in 1613. Construction used Elizabethan techniques
and materials including real thatch. Unfortunately, no productions
were available for us as work was ongoing in preparation for a future production.
The river walk along the Thames allowed a nice view of St Paul's plus
we passed by the Anchor (a pub dating to Shakespeare's time), The Clink
Prison Museum (that’s where the term came from), Southwark Cathedral, and
Sir Francis Drake’s ship, The Golden Hind. Interestingly, we had
gotten to tour the Golden Hind several years earlier when it visited the
coast in California.
Day Ten
Ah, the real start of Globus Tour GA (Britain in Depth). You can
also click on the map below to make it larger.
Leaving London, we stopped at Hampton Court Palace, begun by Cardinal
Wolsey in 1514 and confiscated by Henry VIII in 1525, was a royal residence
until about 200 years ago. Much of the building was done by Henry
VIII (see west entrance) and William & Mary (see east entrance).
The architect for William & Mary was Christopher Wren.
Next stop was Chartwell, Winston Churchill’s home from 1922 until his
death in 1965. This is a lovely estate and many of his paintings
are displayed in the house as well as in his studio. The National
Trust has restored the house to it’s 1930's style. Stayed the night
in Brighton at the Hilton Metropole, one of the old posh seaside vacation
hotels.
Day Eleven
Started the day with a visit to the Royal Pavilion. Built by George
IV in the late 1700's when he was Prince of Wales as a retreat. This
Oriental/Indian/Gothic/Georgian palace was his fantasyland and party place.
It remained a royal retreat until Queen Victoria sold it to the city of
Brighton.
On to Portsmouth where we visited the Maritime Museum and toured the
HMS Victory, Admiral Lord Nelson’s flagship.
Next was Winchester Cathedral. This 900 year old cathedral is
the longest medieval building in Europe at 556 ft. Stayed the night
in Southampton.
Day Twelve
Started bright and early to arrive at Stonehenge at opening. We
were fortunate since the area had been closed recently due to foot &
mouth. This ancient monument is just as impressive in person as it
seems in pictures. Begun some 4500 years ago it is believed to have
taken 1000 years of arranging and re-arranging before it was completed.
Stonehenge |
Stonehenge |
Stonehenge |
Continued southeast through Devon and into Dartmoor National Park viewing
beautiful scenery including the bleak moors of Hound of Baskervilles fame.
Stopped for lunch in Widecombe-in-the-Moor and ate at The Old Inn, a
14th century inn.
Next, to Plymouth where we spent a leisurely time exploring the Barbican
before checking into our hotel. Plymouth, a major seaport, was largely
destroyed by air raids in WWII but there are some historic sites remaining
such as the spot where the Pilgrims set sail in 1620.
Day Thirteen
Spent the day exploring the Cornwall area of extreme southwest England.
St Michaels Mount is a small islet of the coast near Penzance (of Pirates
of Penzance fame) with a large Benedictine Abbey. It once had a chapel
built by Edward the Confessor. It is thought that it has been associated
with Christianity since the 5th century. Speculation also exists
that this is the site of King Arthur’s Avalon.
Stopping at Lands End provided spectacular views of the rugged coastline
and ocean.
On the way to St Ives, we didn’t meet a man with seven wives but we
did see some ruins of old steamhouses, lots of stone walls, great scenery
and spent a nice interlude in the town and along the shore. For lunch
we had pasties which are a Cornwall specialty consisting of a pastry shell
with diverse fillings such as fish, meat, potatoes, etc.
Crossing the river Tamar into Saltash, we saw an old rail bridge designed
by I K Brunel. In Saltash, we took a boat cruise of the Tamar ending
in Plymouth Harbor. Saw lots of boats, ships, and nice views of the
harbor including a harbor-side view of the Royal Citadel.
Upon disembarking we stopped at a pub for drinks before returning to
the hotel (see John, our driver and Huw, our guide).
Day Fourteen
Traveled through Glastonbury, home of the Glastonbury Abbey and Glastonbury
Tor. According to legend, Jesus, Joseph of Arimathea, and Saints
Patrick and Augustine all came here and that it is the resting place of
the Holy Grail. Also, The Tor is believed to have been King Arthur’s
Isle of Avalon.
On to Bath where we passed some impressive row houses (townhouses) laid
out in circular arcs. The Royal Crescent was designed by John Wood,
the younger, and the Royal Circus was designed by John Wood, the elder
(my ancestors and Graham's, no doubt).
Next stop was the Roman Baths. In 1880, workmen inadvertently
uncovered these remains. A good example of the amazing engineering
of the Romans. These baths were probably in use for about 400 years.
A brief stop in the Pump Room allowed us to sample a glass of the mineral
water from the spring (yuck).
In the evening we dined at Kemeys, Wales’ oldest inhabited manor house.
We were treated to some traditional Welch fare as well as entertainment
by the family (Eifion, Betty, and Diane as well as the harpist Lois).
Stayed in Cardiff this night.
Dining at Kemeys |
Entertainment at Kemeys |
Day Fifteen
Leaving Cardiff, we headed north through "The Valleys" whose iron and
coal were the raw materials for the Industrial Revolution. On through
Brecon Beacons National Park. The barren peaks are thought to have
been the home of King Arthur's mountain stronghold.
Back into England and the Wye valley to visit the 11th century Hereford
Cathedral. It is home to the Mappa Mundi, a world map drawn on animal
skin about 1290. On to Worcester where we toured the Royal Worcester
Porcelain Factory and the Worcester Cathedral. Worcester is also
the birthplace of the composer Elgar (you know, the "Pomp and Circumstance"
guy).
On to Stratford-upon-Avon where we visited Ann Hathaway's birthplace.
This thatched roof house with its lovely gardens are a favorite tourist
destination. It was here that we had the "official" group picture
taken. Also toured Shakespeare's birthplace. In the town center,
we were lucky enough to find two like-minded souls. Stayed in Stratford-upon-Avon
for the night.
John, Alan, Joe, Margaret, Earl, Arlene, John, Huw, Barbara
Beverly, Graham, Carol, Nancy, Frank, Pat |
Day Sixteen
Spent the morning wandering through the Cotswolds area villages with
their lovely cottages made of golden Cotswolds Stone, many with thatched
roofs and well tended gardens. Some of the villages we visited were
Chipping Norton, Morrton-in-Marsh, Bourton-on-the-Hill, Broadway, and Chipping
Campden.
Spent our free time in Stratford walking along the Avon. Saw the
famous Dirty Duck Inn (orginally The Black Swan), and the Royal Shakespeare
Theatre.
Off to Warwick Castle, widely considered England's finest medieval castle.
Lots of displays of historical interest including the dungeon with all
the various torture machines. Many displays utilizing wax figures
of period characters. Just so happens that it's operated by Tussauds.
Traveled to Lower Quinton where we had dinner at the College Arms.
This inn is owned by the nearby Magdelene (pronounced maudlin) College.
Stayed in Stratford-upon-Avon again tonight.
Day Seventeen
On to the Midlands where we stopped at the town of Ironbridge.
Amazingly, there is an iron bridge here spanning the Severn River that
is the world's first cast-iron bridge built in 1779. This area was
the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution with the discovery of a more
efficient smelting process.
On to Chester, a walled city dating to Roman times. Lots of shopping
in what seems like an outdoor mall. Visited Chester Cathedral, the
site of a Benedictine Abbey founded in 1092 on the site of an AD 902 church.
The cathedral got a Gothic facelift in 1250 as well as later makeovers.
Also viewed a Roman ampitheatre, unearthed in 1960, and a Roman garden
surrounded by the stumps of Roman columns.
Passed back into Wales and into the beautiful Ruthin (pronounced rithin)
Valley where we stayed at Ruthin Castle for two nights.
Ruthin Valley (handled the focus better this time)
|
One evening while staying at the castle, Huw treated us to a walking
tour of the castle grounds and related much of the history including the
period during the late 1800's and early 1900's when the castle was a favorite
party place (as in wild parties) of the Royals and other of the country's
elite and fun-loving people.
Ruthin Castle |
Older Section |
Sitting Room |
Day Eighteen
Followed the coastal road past Conwy Castle to the small village of
Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwillllantysiliogogogoch. Reportedly,
the longest-named village in the world. Next came the walled city
of Caernarfon. The Caernarfon Castle is the site where Edward I presented
his infant son, Edward II, as the Prince of Wales (He had promised a prince
born in Wales and speaking no English).
Rolled through Snowdonia Nat Park and its rugged Llanberis Pass into
the Welsh Moors. Stopped in Llangollen with its bridge across the
River Dee.
Made the challenging climb (for the bus) through Horseshoe Pass and
back to Ruthin for the night.
Day Nineteen
Today , we traveled through the Cumbria Mountains and into Lake District
National Park with the beautiful lakes, stone walls, and lots of sheep.
Passed through Windemere and stopped for lunch in Grasmere, home of William
Wordsworth. While eating in a small teahouse, we were entertained
by a small bird dining on crumbs off the tables with no fear whatsoever.
Also stopped briefly in Thirlmere.
Went some way out of our path to be able to see a good section of Hadrian’s
Wall (most of it has been carted off for other buildings. The wall
was ordered built by Roman Emporer Hadrian in AD 122 to keep the barbarians
of the north out. Originally 15 feet all and 8 to 9 feet wide, the
wall took 8 years to build and stretched for 73 miles across the island.
Into Scotland, we stopped at Gretna Green, the Las Vegas of Britain.
Restrictive marriage laws in England caused many to travel here to be married
by the blacksmith.
Rode past Lockerbie, the site of the infamous Pan Am plane crash and
to Glasgow where we spent the night.
Day Twenty
Passed Loch Lomond where we learned the difference between the high
and low roads. Also saw the home area of Rob Roy MacGregor.
Loch Lomond |
Loch Lomond |
Rode through Rannoch Moor and into Glencoe. This rugged area was
home to the Clan MacDonald before they were set upon and nearly wiped out
by the Campbells at the behest of the English.
Stopped for a photo op at Glenfinnan on Loch Shiel. This was the
site where Bonnie Prince Charlie rallied the clans around the Stewart standard
to signal the rebellion of 1745.
Then along the coast to Mallaig where we boarded a ferry (the bus too)
for the Isle of Skye. Toured Armadale Castle, the Museum of the Isles,
and the lovely grounds. This was a home of the MacDonalds and has
a genealogy center for Clan Donald. Returned to the mainland via
the Skye Bridge.
Waiting for our ferry |
Hebrides from ferry |
View from Skye Bridge |
Stopped for photos of Eilean Donan Castle, the restored 13th century
seat of the MacMcKenzies. One of the most used images in Scotland
and, I believe, it was used in the movie Highlander.
Rode along Loch Ness on our way to Inverness where we stayed the night.
Only sight of Nessie we saw was a statue in a city park.
Day Twenty-one
Passed through the Culloden Moor where Bonnie Prince Charlie met his
downfall. Stopped for a welcome respite at The Glenlivet distillery.
A tour and sample readied us for the remainder of the day. Also got
an idea of how heather looks thanks to a cultured bed at the distillery
as it does not normally blossom until late summer.
The whole group but for three |
Passed by some of Bobbie Burns' "beasties", a small breed of cattle
who are very shaggy. Through the mountains passed the area of Lecht,
through the home area of Clan Gordon, saw some ruins of old stone crofts.
Stopped for a while at Balmoral Castle, the Queen's vacation residence
in Scotland. Liz wasn't there.
Through Blairgowrie and Dundee over the River Tay to St Andrews With
nice views of the North Sea. Walked across the 18th hole on the road
which crosses it to take a picture of the clubhouse.
Crossed the Firth of Forth into Edinburgh. The rail bridge pictured
was built in 1890.
Dinner was combined with a "Scottish Evening" at Jamies which included
Bagpipes, a Scottish band, dancers, and the ceremony of the Haggis (naturally).
Stayed in Edinburgh for two nights.
Day Twenty-two
Spent quite a bit of time at Edinburgh Castle and it was well justified.
This is an impressive structure built on the peak of an extinct volcano.
Saw Queen Marys chambers and the Scottish Crown Jewels. The view
of Edinburgh was taken from the castle wall. The large black structure
in the center is the memorial to Sir Walter Scott.
Visited the ruins of Holyrood Abbey and saw Holyrood Palace, the official
residence of the Queen when she is in Scotland.
During our free afternoon, we visited the National Gallery of Scotland.
The decor was nearly as impressive as the paintings themselves. Also
spent time walking along the Royal Mile and doing a bit of shopping.
The High Kirk of St Giles (also known as St Giles Cathedral) was the
first church converted by John Knox to protestantism and is Scotland's
principal church.
In the evening, we rode up to Arthur's Seat, the cone of an ancient
volcano, had a drink at the Sheeps Heid Inn in nearby Duddingston, and
dined at the St George Hotel.
Day Twenty-three
Near Melrose is Abbotsford House, Sir Walter Scott's home and repository
of his extensive collections of books, armor, and knick-knacks. Stopped
briefly near Jedburgh Abbey (founded in 1138 by King David I of Scotland.
Made tracks through southern Scotland, Northumberland National Park
in England, through Newcatle-upon-Tyne, and to York, England's most complete
medieval city. Founded as Eboracum by the Romans in AD71 as an administrative
base for Northern England. It was also important to the Saxons as
Eoforwic and the Vikings as Jorvik.
The Minster, the tallest building in York and the largest Gothic cathedral
in Britain, overshadows much of the city. The present structure,
erected between 1220 and 1470, was preceeded by the Roman Fortress where
Constantine the Great was hailed emporer in 306 and the Saxon cjurch where
King Edwin converted to Christianity in 627. It has been estimated
that half of all medieval stained glass in England is here. The great
East Window, constructed from 1405 to 1408 and depicting the beginning
and end of the world in over a hundred small scenes, is the largest single
medieval glass window in the world.
Shambles St is a shopper's paradise and yes, this is the origin of the
word for disorder and confusion.
Stayed the night in nearby Harrogate.
Day Twenty-four
Into the East Midlands to Leicestershire where we stopped at Belvoir
Castle (pronouced Beaver), home of the Duke and Duchess of Rutland.
It houses one of England's finest private art collections.
We return to Cambridge. Since we had previously had a good opportunity
to gawk at the beautiful buildings, we chose to hire a punt along with
Joe and Margaret and enjoyed a leisurely ride along the River Cam.
Got another look at many of the buildings and bridges from a different
vantage point. The Mathematical Bridge was built in 1749 without
the use on a single nail or bolt. A meddling Victorian took it apart
to see how it worked and was unable to reassemble it without using steel
rivets every two inches.
On the ride to London, we were treated to a poem written for the occasion
by our Bard-on-board, Joe. To understand some of the references,
you needed to be on the tour. If you're curious, ask someone who
was.
Huw our guiding light
G, lob-us with facts
as we foreign folks
hear his lyrical wax
- we try to look back
to the roots of our being
eyes opened wide
to the sights we are seeing.
From around the Glob - us
a baker’s dozen
new friendships are found
(and maybe a cousin)
the U S and Oz
Aotearoa too
GA four twenty-seven
has really come through |
At the tail of the day
John - after delivering us
is keeping the shine
on the Glo-bus
- windows are sparkling
paintwork is too
the work isn’t done
‘til the Volvo looks new.
As we near the end
of a great Britain tour
we needed more days
rather than fewer
the apple of travel
has left a sweet taste
and once we have bitten
- to the core we will haste.
Joe Bell, May 2001 |
Back in London, we had dinner at Ye Old Cheshire Cheese and attended
a production by the Reduced Shakespeare Company at the Criterion Theatre
on Picadilly Circus.
Day Twenty-five
Home again, home again and none too soon. All in all, a wonderful
tour. Amazing how, in such a brief time, a small group like ours
can get to feel like family. |